Dark tourism or grief tourism – Visiting DMZ from the Vietnam War era

A visit to The Vinh Moc Tunnels, Vietnam

Dark tourism or grief tourism are being used as terms for tourism linking travel to places historically related to tragedy and death of people. The DMZ region of Vietnam has hard a harsh history for most people living there. To call it DMZ (stands for Demilitarized Zone) is not a very accurate description as this narrow band of terrain - five kilometres on either side of the Ben Hai River - saw heavy fighting during the war. Bombs were thrown at military targets, but civilians became true victims in the war leading to lots of grief.

Illustration of how tiny the rooms are in the tunnels

Innocent villagers were forced to live many years underground for protection. Yes, it must have been horrible, but there is no such thing as a dark tourist, and you should visit the famous Vinh Moc Tunnel with right intentions because you generally care about the world around you and its destiny. Most importantly, we can still learn from the emotional experience that is so deeply felt when visiting this place, and especially when you listen to the stories told by someone who was there. Hopefully, our attitudes can be changed for the better.



The DMZ existed from 1954 until the end of the war. It was the result of the Geneva Conference of 1954. The northern part of Vietnam, which was controlled by the Viet Minh and was named the Democratic Republic of Vietnam, under Communist leader Ho Chi Minh. The southern part of Vietnam became the independent State of Vietnam under the country’s last emperor Bảo Đại for a short period of time. After a referendum in 1955, South Vietnam became a republic and was ruled by Ngô Đình Diệm.



The local people of Vinh Linh, looking for a way to protect themselves from terrifying B-52 bombs and other army activity. No other part of the country suffered more grievously during the Vietnam War. More bombs were dropped on the DMZ that was dropped on all of Germany during the Second World War! The area was also sprayed with strong toxins known as Agent Orange.

B52 bombs the DMZ area in 1969

With all this horror it is remarkable how the villages manage to get through daily life. In 1965, they began to dig tunnels using simple tools. The tunnel complex has a total length of nearly 2 km and were finished within two years. The complex expanded and finally included wells, kitchens, and rooms for each family, and hospital. Approx. 60 families lived in the tunnels; and 17 children were actually born inside the tunnels. For safety reason the kids had to remain in the tunnels, and some kids did not see the sun for the first seven years of his life. The story also tell what is most important when you visit the place - listen to the stories of the local guides.



The tunnels are much larger than the ones at Cu Chi, where most people visit, due to its location near to Saigon. The Vinh Moc Tunnels are quite large are well lit. They go three levels down.

Model of the tunnel complex

There are not much remaining of the former US bases. The bases were more or less destroyed when the Americans left. But then again, it is such an interesting historic place and just listen to the stories are worth the visit. In the archives of American history, just the names of the bases and battlefields in the area evoke such sentiment. The history of this conflict is more than just a military fight. The impact that it has had on American culture and foreign policy for many decades during and after the wakes making it a turning point in history.



It is possible to reach the area from Hue. This is another good place to stay to experience some of the country’s history being the emperor city of Vietnam. For more information and travel tips, you are welcome to visit my other blog.




Anh.